The Central Asian rice pilaf that became beloved throughout Russia and the former Soviet republics. Fragrant long-grain rice is cooked in an extraordinary amount of rendered lamb fat and oil alongside grated carrot, whole heads of garlic, and a robust combination of cumin and coriander. The defining technique is the zirvak: the meat, onion, and carrot base is cooked to a deep caramelization before the rice is laid on top and steamed to completion with the lid sealed. The result is a golden, aromatic, magnificently fatty and satisfying communal dish.
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Heat the oil (or render the lamb fat) in a very large, heavy-bottomed pot or traditional kazan (cast-iron cauldron) over the highest heat possible until it begins to lightly. This extreme heat is essential to create the correct flavor.
Add the lamb pieces to the oil and without stirring for 4 to 5 minutes until a deep, dark brown crust forms on all sides. The caramelized crust is fundamental to the flavor. Remove the lamb and set aside.
Add the sliced onions to the hot fat. , stirring occasionally, over high heat for 10 to 15 minutes until they are a deep mahogany brown. Do not rush this step; the onions must almost blacken.
Add the carrot matchsticks to the caramelized onions. for another 10 minutes , stirring occasionally, until the carrots soften and turn golden. This is the zirvak base.
Return the lamb to the pot. Add the cumin, crushed coriander, pepper, and salt. Stir to coat everything. Pour in enough hot water to just cover the meat. Bring to a , reduce to a , and cook the zirvak for 30 minutes .
Taste the zirvak broth and season heavily; it should taste slightly over-seasoned, as the rice will absorb much of the salt.
Spread the drained rice in an even layer directly over the zirvak. Do not stir. Press the whole garlic heads deep into the rice. Pour the water carefully over the back of a spoon to distribute it evenly. The water should come 2 cm above the rice surface.
Bring to a uncovered over high heat until the surface water is absorbed, about 10 minutes . Reduce heat to the absolute minimum, cover with a tight lid or seal with foil, and cook for 20 minutes undisturbed.
Remove from heat. Let rest, covered, for 10 minutes . Uncover, remove the garlic heads, and use a large spoon to gently turn the rice from the bottom up, mixing it with the zirvak. Serve the garlic as a centerpiece garnish.
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