A structural triumph of legumes. Raw, soaked chickpeas are ground into a coarse, intensely green matrix with massive amounts of parsley, cilantro, and garlic, then flash-fried into spheres with a shatteringly crisp exterior and a steamy, herb-flecked, soft interior. The critical rule: never use canned or cooked chickpeas. Only raw-soaked legumes contain the ungelatinized starches that bind correctly and produce the iconic crunch without a flour binder.
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Drain the soaked chickpeas thoroughly. In a food processor, combine the chickpeas, parsley, cilantro, onion, garlic, cumin, coriander, cayenne, and salt. Pulse repeatedly until the mixture is a coarse, gritty paste. It must not be smooth or the falafel will be dense. Test it: press a small amount in your palm; it should just hold together.
Refrigerate the falafel mixture for at least 1 hour . This hydrates the remaining starch and helps the mixture firm up for easier shaping.
Add the soda to the mixture and mix thoroughly just before . Heat the oil in a deep pot to 350 degrees Fahrenheit (175 Celsius). Test with a small piece first; it should sizzle immediately and rise to the surface.
Using wet hands or a falafel scoop, form the mixture into round balls or flattened discs approximately 1.5 inches in diameter. Work quickly and do not overcompress them.
The Finish. the falafel in batches, without crowding the pot, for 3 to 4 minutes until deeply browned all over. They should sound hollow when tapped. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately while the crust is still crackling. Serve in pita with tahini, fresh vegetables, and turnips.
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